Monthly Archives: October 2014


Thunder and Turtle Eggs at Los Zorros & Padre Ramos Reserve 1

We took a microbus (minivan) from León to Chinandega. We could see tree-coated volcanoes right from start, flickering like a zoetrope through the trees at the side of road. While I tried to take photos of the view, a lady beside me brushed her hand on my shoulder. I reluctantly turned to see what she wanted but she was just keen to tell me that the view would be better for photos after the next bend in the road. She was just being kind. Somehow we fell into conversation in spite of my knowing only a few words of Spanish. The lady explained how the volcanoes had sent landslides across the plain and over the road, flattening homes and killing many. we talked about earthquakes and tornadoes. She wrote her phone number in our book in case we ever needed help, then negotiated a taxi for us when we reached our […]


León – Crumbling Under its own Passion 1

Jet lag and exhaustion caught us around 22:00 so we got an early night and woke to the sounds of a metalwork shop jangling through the gap between the wall and ceiling. It was the only rough edge to an otherwise blissful place to stay. We followed the Lonely Planet walking tour of the city’s main sights, feeling like amateurs for doing so but knowing we’d get to see plenty that way. But we soon found some colloquial charms, like the market where we bought fruit at around one Cordoba a piece. We soaked-up the city with every step on every street, it has such a consistent charm. Every building is painted in a bright pastel shade different to the one next to it. The streets are cobbled and the pavements are a mosaic of concrete and tiles. A mess of power lines is draped above. León has an abundance […]


Between Belfast and Managua, Lost in Time

San Salvador Airport, El Salvador. Airport Time. Timeless time. Tired and impatient in the no man’s land between timezones and nations. Between the Here that we wished you were at, and the There back at the start of the journey. The sleepers on the airport floors and benches experience perhaps an even more extreme time dilation, as they fall into the death-sleep of exhaustion and wake intermittently, having not felt the passing of time while they were out. This journey, from Belfast to Managua in Nicaragua, has already warped our body-clocks and we still have one leg to go. We left the house in Belfast by car at 11:00 on Friday, tired and hyped with adrenaline. We had been experiencing one of the best summers in memory, staying dry, bright and mild right into October. But that morning was the first time it felt like the seasons had finally ticked […]